Mustangs 4 Us
CHOOSING THE RIGHT ONE
Mustang/Wild Horse History
Adopt a Mustang! (Wild Horse, not the Car!)
How to Read a Brand
Wild Horse & Burro Watching
Gentling and Training Wild Horses
Wild Horse & Burro Herd Areas/ Where the Wild
Things Are l
Mustang * Horse Colors
"Working With Wild Horses" Book
CLICK ON A SUBJECT AREA FOR
MORE ABOUT ADOPTING A MUSTANG (WILD HORSE):
Where to Adopt l
Selecting the Right Horse for
How to Read a Brand l
Adventures in Halter Training l
Mustang Heritage & History I
Mustang Link to History
Once you've decided to adopt a wild horse or burro,
how do you choose the right
Here are some things to think about:
How good are your horse-gentling skills? We know the horse is scared, but what's your Fear Level?
Are your skills & confidence up to handling an adult wild horse? The minds of a weanling and a 3-year-old horse are not all that different, but being inside a small pen with
a large one is very different from being with a weanling! Watching someone else work with a wild horse is one thing: Finding yourself inside a gentling pen for the first time with a large wild horse can be downright scary!
Or are you more comfortable with a weanling or yearling
or 2 year old?
Many youngsters are pretty easy - "just looking for a friend." Others can be plenty challenging, but their smaller size is less intimidating than a larger animal with the same behaviors and mindset.
Do you have a gut-level preference? Some people just love those babies, others prefer adult horses.
Many people prefer to adopt an adult horse, thinking that, due to its size and maturity, they will be able to ride it right away. This may or may not be realistic or advisable, however.
Despite the success and popularity of the 90 and 100-day "Makeover"
contests, most adopters would be well-advised to put off saddle training
for at least a year after adoption, using that time to become familiar
with the horse and teach it ground skills.
Many experienced adopters feel that three to five years old is perfect: the horse is still young enough to accept training easily, yet mature enough to have all the mental and physical advantages of a natural upbringing in a fully functioning wild herd. And, once gentling has been accomplished, the horse is big and mature enough to move right into saddle training.
Young mustangs - weanlings, yearlings and 2-year-olds - are the best choice for most people. Young mustangs usually gentle down and accept training quickly.
Plus, they are just so gosh-darned cute! However, even the youngsters are wild, and some of them can be challenging.
WILD HORSES ADOPTED AFTER THE AGE OF 5:
horse becomes mature somewhere between the ages of 4 and 7. Mature
horses can do just fine! But do expect them to take more time, and you
need to make sure each step is thorough before expecting more. The
mature mind has many advantages, but a disadvantage to a would-be
gentler is that the horse is more self-confident, and often less
motivated to joining up with you. But with time, patience, and proving
yourself trustworthy, most mature horses will come around.
This horse was adopted as a 7-year-old and is
pictured here being shown by a 7-year-old!
Horses Over 10:
Katie Barrett fell in love with this 12-year-old when she visited Litchfield BLM corrals to adopt, and ended up buying him (he was Sale Authority, being over 10 years old). It took much longer to gain his trust than it would have with a younger horse, but she is succeeding with him. Here he is doing his first ride.
|Some people dispute the commonly held theory that older mustangs are too difficult to gentle and should not be adopted. Not so, they say. Any horse will, with time and patience, learn to trust people and to bond with you. Older horse are usually slower to gentle, but if you are patient, most will come around eventually.
However, a horse who has spent many years in a wild herd is mentally a far different animal from the 0-4-year-olds most of us get - wiser, and more committed to self-preservation as he or she interprets that. One needs to go more slowly, and to accept that it will take a lot longer to gentle and train an older horse. An older wild horse is the equine equivalent of a Black Belt - Be sure you know to read the horse and to remain safe.
For most adopters, a younger horse is a better choice. For beginners, a young Mustang is the best choice.
If you want to start
riding right away...
Very few people will be able to ride their new wild horse within the first
several months, even a year or longer. There are occasional horses who just gentle down and accept training very quickly, and a really good trainer can usually get a wild horse "green-broke" under saddle within not too many months.
Many of the Extreme Mustang Makeover
trainers have their horses well-started under saddle by the end of the
100 days, and there are several prison training programs that produce
quality horses in 120 days. But in the case of the Extreme Mustang
Makeover contestants, these are generally professional trainers or very experienced
amateurs. Both the contestants and the inmate training programs are able
to put in long hours every day. People who have other jobs and
responsibilities usually don't have that much time to devote to it, and
even if they did, wild horses benefit from not being pushed too hard,
too fast. Most will do well with one or two relatively short training
sessions a day, followed by the rest of the day for "soak time."
your horse seems docile, it is not in either your horse's or your own best interest to rush things.
If you rush, skip steps, and end up having a big wreck, both you and the
horse will suffer a huge setback - mentally even if not physically. Do
it right the first time - take the time to get each step solid before proceeding. If your top priority is to ride right away, get an already-trained horse.
ADOPT A SADDLE-TRAINED MUSTANG:
If you live in the West, there are several
facilities with wild horse training programs. Inmates put in long days,
5 days a week, so a horse coming out of one of these programs has had a
lot of training. Originally 90 days programs, most are now 120 days.
Good programs include Warm Springs Correctional Center Wild Horse Program in Carson City, Nevada;
Canon City, Colorado;
Crabtree Prison in Oklahoma;
Hutchinson, Kansas; and
Henderson Correctional Facility in Arizona, and Rio Cosumnes
Correctional Facility's Wild Horse Training Program in Sacramento,
Also, the Mantle Ranch in Wyoming, trains horses for the BLM.
This is a family operation, BLM's only "Cottage Contractor."
|Or buy an already trained mustang from a private party. The Bay Area Equestrian Network and the Wild Horse Mentors/KBR website have classified ads for "pre-owned" mustangs. The California BLM Adopter's Assistance website also has a section for horses and burros needing homes. Craigslist is becoming popular as a place to advertise horses for sale - be sure you are buying a TITLED animal in that case.
2. Gender: To some people this isn't an issue. Other people have definite ideas about gender in equines.
Mares are often more "cuddly" and affectionate than males. Many Mustang mares are relatively unaffected by their hormonal cycles, and are just as reliable and steady, and capable of performance as geldings. Sadly, mares outnumber males in BLM holding pens by a significant percentage, due to the widespread belief that mares are harder to deal with.
PLEASE NOTE: THE WILD MARE YOU ADOPT MIGHT BE PREGNANT.
If she has been in captivity less than 11 months, you should consider that she very likely IS pregnant. Do your best to gentle her right away (or hire someone who can).
A wild mare with a new foal is one tough customer - be ready!
A pregnant mare is not a good choice for a first-time adopter, although it happens commonly. If the mare is not gentled by the time the foal arrives, the mare can be very protective of her new foal, and become hard to deal with. Far too many mares are turned back to BLM or dumped at the auction, because the foal is easy and the mare difficult.
Don't do that! Get the help you need and make a commitment to your mare, if you adopt one.
Males come in two models: stallions (studs) and geldings.
Wild Studs are reported by many to be far more tractable than domestic stallions. This is due to the socialization inherent in wild herd structure - a wild horse who acts like a jerk is not tolerated by the others in his band. Wild studs do have normal mating urges, however. It is generally a good idea to get a newly-adopted wild stud gelded as soon as possible. Most horses available at BLM adoptions have already been gelded.
Geldings are the choice of most horse owners. There is an old saying that "Mares and stallions are good for making foals, but the only good working horse is a gelding."
The BLM will either geld a stud horse for you, or provide you with a voucher to help offset the cost of gelding, once you get the animal home.
WANT TO BREED MUSTANGS? PLEASE RE-CONSIDER:
Even though your Mustang stud is beautiful and would no doubt sire beautiful foals, please look at the overall horse market before choosing to breed Mustangs in captivity. As of this writing, with hay and fuel prices through the roof, there simply is no market for young, untrained domestically-bred horses of any breed, except perhaps in rare instances of highly proven performance pedigrees or highly sought unusual breeds, combined with aggressive marketing. Please don't add to the problem of "The Unwanted Horse."
Remember, there are plenty more where your horse came from! Mustangs DO NOT need to be bred in captivity in order to "save them from extinction!" They reproduce at a 17 - 22% rate each year in the wild - that is why they are gathered!
Mustang genetics are interesting to study, but one
thing is certain: There are no "rare genes" needing your domestic
breeding to preserve!
CONFORMATION and HEALTH:
Unless you are consciously taking on a rescue horse (and this is a wonderful thing to do, don't get me wrong!) you will probably want to learn enough about conformation (skeletal structure, etc.) to choose a horse who has sturdy legs and feet, and an overall structure that will allow a pleasant smooth ride, and will not cost you big bucks down the line in vet bills due to constitutional or conformational issues. Luckily most wild horses have already been pre-selected by Mother Nature to have strong, sturdy legs and feet.
Here is a good website to learn about conformation:
DIAMONDS IN THE ROUGH:
In evaluating the conformation of wild horses in the adoption pens, you need to "read between the lines."
Don't be distracted by a poor coat, mud-caked feet, or a "hay belly" on a youngster. Look for the underlying structure and use your imagination to see what the horse will be after a few months' good care and nutrition.
Think about what you want to do with your horse, and choose accordingly. A good dressage horse is built differently from a good cutting horse. A reining horse needs differing conformation than a carriage horse. A good barrel racing horse is built differently from an endurance horse.
If you aren't sure what you want to do, or don't know what is needed for your chosen discipline, visit shows and talk with people. (Be aware that they'll probably also turn up their noses at your mention of a mustang - but consider that their problem, not yours!
If you don't have a set discipline in mind, then just choose a sturdy, sound horse who appeals to you in other ways.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT HORSE FOR THE JOB
There's a Mustang For Nearly Everything! What do
you want to do?
If you aspire to compete in Dressage, you'll want a large, elegant-looking horse. A large, well-developed front end (shoulders & neck) are especially important, as well as long legs with an elegant, long stride. See Conrad Shumacher on Conformation For Dressage
By contrast, Working Cow Horses are shorter, for easy mounts and dismounts, with large, well-muscled hindquarters for quick take-offs and agility. Attitude, temperament, innate "cowiness" and willingness are also important.
Likewise, if you're into cutting, reining, team penning, or general ranch work, you'll need a horse built for that type of work. If you plan to show your horse, you need to choose an animal with exceptional conformation. Contrary to popular myth, such excellent individuals abound in the wild horse populations.
Barrel racing and other speed events require, well, SPEED and "Heart". A horse built for sudden take-offs, and short bursts of high speed - similar to a cow horse but usually larger and longer-legged - is
Hunter-Jumpers are tall, with long strides, long necks and deep, sloping shoulders. Wild horses from some of the Cavalry Re-mount areas or other areas where Thoroghbreds were known to have been released, are good choices for this sport.
Trail horses need strong feet and legs, sure-footedness, and an even temperament that does not spook easily. An even temperament, sure-footedness and sturdiness are more valuable on the trail than flash or style, although having a comfortable gait is a major plus.
Points to consider in evaluating good conformation for general riding
(Photo of National Endurance Hall of Fame winner "Mustang Lady" and Naomi Preston)
ENDURANCE horses need to be strong and durable, with lots of stamina, drive and "heart" to keep pushing on despite adversities. And, of course, strong feet and legs are a must. For Endurance, look for large feet, short pasterns, good angulation to the hind legs (not upright) and a horse that is downhill (a bit higher at the withers than the croup). Range born mustangs are used to traveling 15 - 20 miles every day in the course of just getting enough to eat and drink. This makes them ideal candidates for the sport of Endurance.
Ideal conformation for a horse used for long distance racing
TEAMS are enjoying an increased popularity. Drill team horses can include any type of horse, so long as it is well-trained and agile. Of course, flashy coloring helps!
"The Cowgirl Way" All-Mustang Drill Team from Norco, CA
HORSES FOR DRAFT OR CARRIAGE PULLING:
Left: Good Draft Horse conformation Right: Good Carriage Horse build;
Below Right: "Cob" conformation
A companion horse can have any size and shape - but if your main goal is a "buddy" for an existing horse or a "pasture ornament" - choose one that appeals to you enough to keep a commitment to it.
And, depending on your circumstances, choosing for good health and easy maintenance might be a consideration.
Temperament is probably the hardest thing
for most people to evaluate in horses being presented for adoption, whether at a holding facility or a weekend adoption. The stress of being confined in a small pen with other horses who may be strangers to one another sometimes makes good horses look bad.
Another variable is how long the horse has been in captivity. Although still quite wild, horses who have been in the holding facility for several months will be much less "crashy" and skittish than horses fresh off the range.
Horses who have been born at a holding facility, or spent years living at one, may have lost much of their natural fear of people. Such horses often appear to be tame to the potential adopter. Please understand that they aren't gentled - they just aren't afraid any more. These horses present their own challenges - often needing more work in teaching manners and respecting personal space - more like a domestic horse who ahs not been trained but is used to people.
It is important to keep such animals at a safe distance until they are gentled enough for safe handling. This is contrary to most new adopters' focus on getting that first touch.
There are a number of widely-quoted benchmarks for judging temperament: Look for a kind eye, look for large, clear eyes, not tight, slit-open ones. However, horses at adoptions are stressed, and may not exhibit big, kind eyes, although the horse will develop this countenance after settling in to the new home, being treated well for a period of time, etc.
A better benchmark is this: Watch how the horse interacts with others. (And even this is not totally valid at adoption sites, due to the stress of being in a new place, being in a small pen with unfamiliar horses, etc.)
If you want a quiet, easy-going horse, choose one that manages to avoid most skirmishes, one that does not seem overly upset by things that upset the more excitable horses, one that is neither the main aggressor nor the main one being picked on, and one who seems sociable and well-liked by the other horses. A horse with many scars and blemishes should not necessarily be ruled out, as it may be due to human harassment, injuries during capture or transport, predator encounters or a host of other reasons, but it is a "red flag" that just may indicate that this fellow has an Attitude!
If you want a horse for endurance or similar discipline that requires tremendous "heart" choose one of the more animated, even feisty ones.
Do understand that horses at adoptions are stressed. It seems unreasonable to expect them to stand around, calm and serene, with big soft eyes, under the circumstances. Their facial expressions will change 100% once you get them home and they start to feel safe and comfortable.
Nationally, about 5 to 10% of wild horses are of colors or
patterns other than bay, brown and red.
For that reason, it is better to look for a good horse with a good mind
and serviceable conformation
than a certain color.
Historically, the classic colors of red, bay, brown, and black were the
colors favored by Cavalry Remount programs (because they are harder to see,
especially at night). Classic, uncomplicated coloring has also been favored
by most domestic breeds during the period when the Great Basin was settled.
Classic solid coloring may even have an evolutionary advantage, since they
may be harder for predators to see.
Wherever there is a lot of color, there is a lot of human selection and
management. If you want a true "Bred By Mother Nature" horse, don't overlook
the classic colors.
A good horse is never a bad color.
That said, color may matter to you.
You may feel that, if you can only get this one horse, it had better be the horse you've dreamed of all your life. One's Dream Horse is usually a certain color or color pattern,
perhaps a palomino, a shiny Black Stallion, a dapple gray, or a flashy pinto. Or
you may be attracted to the exotic "primitive markings" on duns.
Since your ability to commit deeply to the horse is THE prime ingredient for success, I consider a color priority to be legitimate. If you have a color preference, simply admit that you do, and don't beat yourself up over it.
On the other hand, as you get to know your new horse and to develop a bond, you
are likely to stop noticing the color. If you can get past color and just
choose for conformation, movement, and other qualities, such as "kind eye" or
heart connection" you are more likely to get a better horse. I see so many
struggling adopters who chose their horse on flash, but the horse is not really
suited to them. I also think many people go for color, simply because they don't
know how to choose, and the "horse of a different color" stands out in the pen.
Looking at this Halter class at the Western States Wild Horse & Burro Expo, you would never guess that the vast majority of mustangs are
reds, browns, bays and blacks, and that pintos and appaloosas make up less than 5% of all mustangs, would you?
THE DOWN SIDE OF COLOR PREFERENCE WHEN CHOOSING A MUSTANG:
The vast majority of mustangs are bays or dark reds, known affectionately as "Nevada Browns."
These plain-wrapper bays and dark reds are far more "at risk" of never
being adopted, perhaps eventually coming to a bad end under the Burns Rider 3-Strikes Rule, than their more unusually-colored brothers and sisters. The majority of young 3-strikes horses are
plain-colored, and the ones left over at the end of an adoption are nearly always the "Nevada Browns."
SO WHY DO SO MANY PEOPLE WANT "COLOR" IN THEIR MUSTANG?
In the domestic horse world, bay, brown and sorrel or chestnut are fine colors. No one would consider ruling out a Quarter Horse
or Thoroughbred because he is Bay or Red! So what's the deal with Mustangs and color?
In domestic horses, people choose a horse based on training, bloodlines, conformation, and temperament.
Wild horses have no training, their bloodlines are unknown, their wildness makes it
more difficult to evaluate their temperaments, and many adopters are not comfortable evaluating conformation, especially in a wild, un-groomed, and possibly underfed horse.
So they look for the horse that stands out from the crowd - the
"horse of a different color."
But folks, DO look deeper! Once you get to know your horse, the color will be the LEAST important
quality! Choose a good horse, not just a color!
Not to mention - Red, Bay, Brown, and Black are beautiful!
8. Your gut-level Connection
The most important thing of all is for you to feel a strong commitment to your animal, because that's what it's going to take.
No matter how "practical" or "rational" a choice is, your adoption project will not be successful if you cannot, in your heart, commit deeply to it.
So, after considering all the practical matters:
CHOOSE A HORSE THAT SPEAKS TO YOUR HEART.
CLICK ON A SUBJECT AREA FOR
MORE ABOUT ADOPTING A MUSTANG (WILD HORSE):
Where to Adopt l
Selecting the Right Horse for
Adoption Requirements l
How to Read a Brand l
Adventures in Halter Training l
Mustang Heritage & History
Mustang Link to History